A Purple Palette Cleanser

After the sewing room clean up I felt the need for a little sewing palette cleanser- a quick remake of Simplicity 2599 sans ruffles.  I made the first version last summer from a red voile with peach polka dots and View D version ruffled front.

  It turned out be be lovely on hot days- and since I had leftover purple voile after making the ruffled Kwik Sew blouse recently,  it was just enough for another S2599 top.  Enough for the top but no decorative trim.

Still, its good to have some plain tops to wear under jackets and cardis for warmer days  One of the things I love as a lazy sewer is the multi bust cup size and the wearing ease in the pattern.  I chose my size by the high bust measurement for the overall size and didn't need to alter for tummy or hips because of design ease built in despite cutting a smaller size for this pattern than I do with some other brands.  I chose the appropriate bust cup front piece for my requirements.  The pattern goes from B to D cup size options.

The whole thing is really easy to sew, the only alteration I needed to make this time was to carve out a little from the lower front armhole, about 1/8 inch where the previous version crinkled up with wearing, probably because of the forward arm movements that my work requires. The wrinkles you see on the right shoulder should clear up after I rebuild some muscles in my shoulder that has dropped a little after rotator cuff injury months back, so I am not going to mess with the pattern to eliminate what I plan on being a temporary thing.

The insides are lovely and neat with french seams on the shoulder and side seams, back seam has folded raw edge stitched close to the fold (so vintage!!) to finish in a non bulky way.  Its a lovely flat finish that doesn't show through the quite sheer fabric. 
The inside armholes have a bias strips of the fabric folded in half, sewn to the raw edge, trimmed and the folded edge topstitched to the inside of the opening.  Its very smooth and sleek, and soft to wear.  Overlocking raw edges was ruled out because I don't  have fine enough thread- the usual stuff is far too beefy when combined with 3 or 4 strands of it in a seam- plus I lacked the right colour. 
There is a neck facing with a three step zig zag to finish the raw edge.  I've used the most gorgeous fusible interfacing that was sourced from The Pattern Sewing Workshop's Linda Lee last year, she sells the interfacing that is obtained from one of her industry contacts.  Its not available in regular retail stores and is one of those products that the fashion industry can access but craft retailers cannot. This is how sheer the interfacing is, with a beautiful drape:  I have never seen anything like it before.
And at $18 a metre its well worth every cent.  I am not sure if she still has it but I hope so!! Kicking myself that I didn't order more when I bought it.   Its wonderful on sheer voiles, would be great on silks or linens when you don't want to stiffen the hand of the fabric.  The Project Sewing Workshop is an independent clothing company with some chic and different clothing patterns.  I have the Lotus and 8th Avenue Skirt pattern in my collection to make up.


The back neckline I don't finish quite the way the pattern suggested, which was actually no finish of any sort except to turn the raw edge under.   Not a good thing.   I knew my fabric was prone to ravelling and detest unfinished edges in garments, and to prevent the button loop from pulling through delicate fabric I sewed it to the back facing before sewing it to the neckline, rather than to the edge of the slit as suggested through a single layer. I finished the edges of the slit in the same way and at the same time as finishing the edges of the centre back seam, turning the edge under and stitching close to the fold.
I  positioned the loop just under the 15mm seam allowance so when the facing turned to the back the loop was correctly positioned at the top of the folded edge.  Then tucked the ends under out of sight and finished with a hand sewn slip stitch. You could also sew it in place by machine as I did on the first version of the top.

Work wise I've been out teaching a new round of Machine Quilting at  Frangipani Fabrics  It is located in the heart of Sandy Bay, where teaching and learning is always a delight. I've had the Activa 215 out for classes and she's causing quite a stir- a lot of lust as well!!  The best part is that the students if they wish can buy a 215 from the local Bernina dealership- Easy Sew and skin their own in whatever design they like- or keep it naked if they wish.  Its proving fantastic for classes because of the reduced size and weight- but I don't feel I'm missing out on quality or functions that are needed for quilting or patchwork.  At Frangipani, we have a great classroom space with the bay window flooding the area in natural light during the day and at night we have adequate lighting, and a lovely warm heat pump to keep us warm in climate controlled comfort.  Our own little cafe in the classroom with delicious nibbles and a wide choice of tea and coffee, and the latest is a library in store for customers to borrow quilting books.  Its my hope that if they like them they would choose to order through the store and support local businesses,  rather than hunt the cheapest price down on an internet site to save a few dollars.   During tea break time in classes, students can of course fondle fabric and find patterns, books, threads or other treasures they need for their sewing adventures and get fantastic service in store from Ann and Briony who make everyone welcome and part of the quilting family at Frangipani Fabric.  I think its fantastic,  because this sort of service you won't ever find in general craft chain stores.  The bonus is for day classes there are a range of great cafes and take aways within very short distance- literally across the road or around the corner- so students don't even need to pack a lunch when attending a day class.

At home, my clean up of the sewing room is nearly complete. I have decided one good way to clean up is to finish things off or move them to the next stage toward completion.  I am about to take charge of my scrap basket again, after a cutting session a while back for a kid's quilt. Somehow no matter how many quilts we make as quilters, the scraps continue to breed!   I need some more colours and patches for the quilt and I want to get my remnants into useful shapes and strips for my storage system, rather than overflowing into the basket.  I'd like to remove the basket from the room entirely if I possibly can, because it collects dust and takes up floorspace in a very tiny room.  Maybe I'll put a hook on the wall and hang a fabric bag up there to collect scraps if I can't deal with them at the time they're cut. I am waging war on mess, and my sewing room is not the only room.  The kids room is next- and I think a major culling of toys and sorting for donation/ resale is in order.  Amazing how much mess they can make especially when home on holidays!

Cheers,
Stephanie